Tarii boru...

In a few days I will find out my site placement and then spend a week there to get acquainted. My host family is concerned about me going to a (more) rural area and not being as comfortable or having the things I need. My host mother is concerned about who will feed me especially since I don't know how to make injera (biddeena). I gently tried to remind her that for most of my life I have not eaten injera with my meals. I hope she is not planning to send me off with a week's supply! They have very sweetly said that they hope my site is close so they can check on me, if not they hope they happen to have relatives near my site so they can take care of me. 

Yesterday I made buna (coffee). I think in one of previous posts I mentioned the important part buna plays in Ethiopian culture. My host parents have been asking me when I'm going to do it for awhile now but it's quite the process and the time just hasn't been right. It's become a joke in the family that I say "tarii boru" (maybe tomorrow) a lot. They ask if I'm going to make coffee after I've been in training all day - I say tarii boru... They really want me to eat a mango but I'm not quite sure my stomach is up for it - I say tarii boru... They really want me to drink a soda but I don't want one and they won't accept no for an answer - I say tarii boru...  Saying 'no' directly is not accepted but using 'maybe tomorrow' has worked well for me! So now whenever I try to say 'no' they say 'tarii boru' and we all laugh. Of course my host sister helped me make buna, I definitely wouldn't have been successful alone. First step is to get the charcoal stove going, next wash the green coffee beans and pick out any of them that are not good. Then roast the beans in a pan over the stove. There is a special way to shake the pan and toss the beans to ensure they roast evenly - I'm not good at it. The sound of the sizzling beans and of course the accompanying aroma is almost worth the effort. Next it's time to grind the beans, this is my favorite part! As you can see from the picture, it means smashing them by hand. A great way to get out any aggression. Then after heating water in the jebena (traditional clay kettle), add the ground coffee and let it steep for a bit. Finally ready to be served! Simply pour into the traditional cups (sini) with a hefty dose of sugar (even if you ask for a little, it's still a lot!). It tasted pretty good, but again I had a lot of guidance from my host mother and sister. 

I live across the street from a hair salon. It's just like you'd imagine. Several darling young women work there and throughout the day other women will stop by sometimes just to chat. Since its just across the street sometimes they call me over to hang out with them or if I'm on my way to or from class they will call out to greet me, I feel like a celebrity!

Last weekend we took a day trip to a resort in Sodere. It involved several hours on a bus but it was nice to see more of the country. It is along a river and there are a lot of monkeys there so that was fun.

Love from Ethiopia!

We are all different, we are all the same

When you are immersed in a culture different from the one you grew up in, you can't help but notice the differences everywhere. Some are more in your face than others. And then something happens that makes you remember that despite our differences we are the same too. A few days ago I learned my cousin died suddenly and unexpectedly. We're the same age. I was able to talk with my parents and was obviously upset but thought I would keep it to myself and not let on to my host family that anything was wrong. Of course my host mother knew something was wrong right away. I could communicate to her that someone had died but that was the extent of my language skills so my little 17yo sister came to fill in the blanks. She has an incredibly big heart inside her little body. She hugged me and cried with me and wiped my tears. Their concern for me is so genuine. They barely know me and don't know my family but of course they know grief and the pull to comfort others is universal. We are all different and yet we are all the same. I can't be close to my family back home right now but I am very well taken care of by my Ethiopian family. But it still feels strange to be far away during a time like this. 

Last week I received a surprise valentine card in the mail (thanks Mom!) and a package that I sent to myself with a lot of help from a dear friend who included a few extra treats - so delightful! 

And everyday I feel thankful for the beauty of my surroundings - the rolling hills with shades of green and brown and the way the sun filters through the clouds at the end of the day is pure magic. 

Love from Ethiopia!

Biddeena making 101 and around the neighborhood...

Today one of my host sisters was making biddeena (injera in Amharic) so she let me watch and learn. (Photos shared with her permission) 

First she prepares the cooking surface by wiping it and coating it with some sort of ground fruit/nut to prevent the biddeena from sticking. Some people have electric injera makers, my family has the real deal. 

Next she expertly (and quickly) pours a measured amount of the teff (a local grain) and water mixture in a circle from the outside to the inside. It's harder than it looks, trust me. 

Then cover it and let it cook for a few minutes. My darling little sister! 

When it's done carefully remove it from the hot surface. My sister would critique nearly each one, telling me if it was too dry, too fat, or if the fire was too hot or cold. I, of course, couldn't tell the difference! But biddeena is a part of every meal so I can understand that it's important to get it right and its a point of pride to do it well.

And voila! Slowly the stack piled up. They tell me this is enough biddeena to last our family for 3 days - seems like a lot to me! Every 3 days they make more. Various vegetables and meats are served on top of a plate of biddeena and it is also used as the utensil to get your meal into your mouth. The darker ones on the bottom are made with a different kind of teff, supposedly more nutritious - and I can tell you it tastes more nutritious if you know what I mean. I prefer the biddeena you see on the top. Oh and the really ugly one on the very top is the one I made, pathetic! But of course my sister was gracious and told me I did a good job. It takes a lot of skill to do it right.

Here is the new baby lamb at our house (about 3 days old); a curious calf; one of about 4 chickens (I've enjoyed eggs for breakfast but there's been no chicken on the menu yet); and our guard dog (he looks slightly cute in this photo but don't let that fool you!)

Beautiful Oromia!

Ciao for now! 

Home on the range

I am in a very beautiful, rural area in Ethiopia. I said I was looking forward to getting out of the city and now here I am in the sticks. The landscape is beautiful and I am getting used to this new way of life for now. My host family is wonderful! They are joyful and so kind, and they started teaching me the language right away.  The father usually holds a serious face but whenever we try to talk together in Oromifa his face brightens and he throws his head back with laughter - it makes me proud to have this effect on him. I have a 17yo sister - she's my girl! She's got the best English in the house so she has been super helpful. And she's sweet and adorable and seems fearless. The father is away most of the day working while the women and girls take care of the home. I have a 20yo sister and two 16yo female cousins who live here too. I can tell the 17yo sister was assigned to be my keeper so the others were not as quick to warm up to me but now we're all good - lots of laughing and joking, mostly laughing at me as I struggle with the language but I don't mind, it's all in good fun!  They all call me gobez (smart) but I think they're just humoring me. I am very well fed, I have not felt hungry since I got here, they always want me to eat more and more. While in Addis there are a lot of different types of food available, I actually ate a lot of pizza - because it was convenient and I knew that once we got out to the countryside it would be injera, injera, injera (bidena in Oromifa). And I have definitely been eating a lot of it. Meals are mostly traditional Ethiopian fare - injera with shiro (a smooth lentil stew) gomen (cooked greens - one of my favorites and the greens have so much flavor here!) alicha (potatoes, cabbage, and carrot) for example, but I've also had pasta with sauce, and eggs, bread and tea for breakfast.

My family has lots of animals - oxen, cows (2 babies), sheep (a baby should arrive while I'm here), horses, mules, donkeys, chickens, a cat, and a guard dog who is ferocious - he takes his job of protecting the other animals very seriously. To get to the latrine/squat toilet (mana fincanii in Oromifa, shint bet in Amharic) you hang a right where one of the cows and her calf are tied up, head to the back of the compound and you'll find it essentially inside of the hay barn. Of course at first I was a little uneasy but now I feel like a pro! And I now know it's actually quite nice as far as mana fincaniis go. Perspective. 

We are super busy with language and health training and there's not been time for much else. The days feel long and the nights feel short even though I go to bed by 9. It's getting dark by 6:30 so we're all inside by then because there are no outdoor lights. The stars are amazing - the sky is so full! 

In some parts of the area they are rationing water. The electricity, water, and telephone network are in and out. Internet is not available out here. When the 3G is working I can pay to use data for email, fb, and Viber etc. it just doesn't work consistently. This is my life for the next few years! I'll try to post some pics when I have time and the network is cooperating. 

Ciao for now! 

Ramblings...

Honking horns, excessive car exhaust, lots of pedestrian traffic, busy markets, and an impressive amount of new construction - Addis Ababa is your typical bustling capital city in a developing country. Maintaining a sharp appearance is important here so there is an industry for shoe shining - young men will set up their little stations on the sidewalk and men and women will sit down to get their shoes cleaned while out and about.

The other day we were taken on a brief bus tour of Addis. We went to the Entoto Mountain Forest area - it was cool to be up in the fresh air and see the city below. Lots of eucalyptus growing there - smells so good! Then we went to the National Museum of Ethiopia and saw some historical artifacts including the Lucy/Dinknesh exhibit. Pretty cool.

One afternoon when we had some free time a few of us fully embraced the minibus ("taxi") experience. A minibus is literally a mini bus that seats maybe 10 comfortably, it's a means of affordable public transportation between the neighborhoods. There is a driver, of course, and another young man who takes the fare (2-3 birr, about 10-15 cents in US $) who's job is also to yell out the window what neighborhood the bus is traveling to, so you know which bus to get on. Now I'm sure there are times when people do get to sit comfortably on the bus but it seems that is not the typical experience! Riding the minibus involves getting up close and personal, perhaps even sitting on a stranger's lap! There are crates placed on open floor space to make more seats. And, of course, if the person sitting to the inside of you needs to get off before your stop then a bunch of us need to get off in order to let that person off and then get back on again. Luckily the rides are pretty short between neighborhoods in Addis. There are private taxis but they are significantly more expensive and there are bigger buses and a new train/light rail as other public transportation options. 

It's been fun getting to know my peers, everyone is coming with different interests and backgrounds and has different skills to offer - it's really exciting to learn from them and be a part of this diverse group! 

So far I'm really glad that I brought my pillow from home (rolled it up in a space saver bag), my quick dry towels, and hand sanitizer. All of the restaurants have really nice sinks and soap for hand washing since we eat with our hands (well right hand, to be specific) but I'm glad to have hand sanitizer anyway.

Our first round of immunizations set me back a bit (for about a day) and I'll admit that when I wasn't feeling well I had some doubts about why I was even here and the thought of staying here for 2 years seemed especially daunting. But now that I'm feeling better I'm really happy to be here again! Knock on wood that the illnesses are few and far between. And whenever we have training sessions focused on our health projects my heart feels so full and 2 years doesn't seem long enough - so I know I just need to talk to someone about public health and community based work to feel better on those rough days too. Shout out to my public health peeps! 

Today is Timket, aka Epiphany which is celebrated by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians. So there are many traditional celebrations and ceremonies happening around the country. There was a procession that passed right near our hotel yesterday so that was interesting to observe. Again the road is closed nearby for more processions with singing, clapping and drumming. There are things being said and sung over megaphones that I don't yet understand. Lots of activity! Obviously a very important event for those celebrating.

I absolutely love that there is a huge flowering hibiscus tree near our balcony - I've never seen such a big one with so many flowers! 

Ciao for now!

It's all a blur...

Have been in Addis for a few days now - how many exactly? I'm not sure! We've forged right ahead into our training despite some serious jet lag, hence the past few days all being a blur. Finally starting to feel less foggy and having a more normal schedule. Our hotel is nice enough - hot showers, western toilets, has wifi that works off and on, and a rather eclectic decor! Our training is here on site so that's convenient. We've been well fed and they've provided LOTS of bottled water. Have been feeling well so far with the exception of exhaustion from jet lag in combination with the altitude. Started my malaria prophylaxis (Malarone - for those inquiring medical minds) so far so good. They also give us a really well stocked medical kit for if (when) we get sick so in addition to the stuff I brought I sorta feel like I'm carrying around a mini pharmacy - but the nurse in me needs to be prepared! We get the rest of the shots we need starting next week (again for those inquiring minds - typhoid, meningococcal and rabies). We leave for our home stays in about a week. I will live with a host family outside of Addis for the next few months while I continue training with my fellow health volunteers. I will learn next month what village I am assigned to - so far all I know is it will be small and rural (population of about 2,000) and most likely I will be the first Peace Corps volunteer they've ever had. Exciting! I will make a site visit there the beginning of March and move there in April. They've helped us set up our local phones so I can be in touch with everyone I need to be locally. Not sure how well I'll be able to communicate internationally from my village but there should be a bigger town nearby that will have things like an Internet cafe and post office (posta bet) so I can go there about once a week. 

Ciao for now! Or dehna hoon (goodbye) in Amharic. 

Next Stop: Addis Ababa!

Things have been going really well.  A few days of sightseeing in DC, a few days of training and now we are preparing to fly to Addis Ababa.  Packing has been interesting - we are limited to 2 suitcases of 50lbs each which adds up quickly!  I've downsized a time or two and shifted things around - tired of dealing with luggage already!  It will be interesting to see what I'm actually glad I brought and what I could have left at home.

There are 62 of us volunteers, split between the Health and Environment sectors.  It is really comforting to be with people who share a similar experience.  We can commiserate about the lengthy process of just getting ourselves to this point.  There's a lot of "I know what you mean!" and "me too!"  And I think we all understand the whole spectrum of emotions we might each experience as we move along with the journey. 

We will continue training in Addis for a few weeks while staying at a hotel.  Then we move to a city near Addis to continue training for 3 months, while living with host families.  Training involves language, culture, navigating systems in Ethiopia, and more specifics on our projects.

I am most looking forward to learning the language and using it with some confidence and finally getting to my assigned village and feeling settled!

Ciao for now!