Home on the range

I am in a very beautiful, rural area in Ethiopia. I said I was looking forward to getting out of the city and now here I am in the sticks. The landscape is beautiful and I am getting used to this new way of life for now. My host family is wonderful! They are joyful and so kind, and they started teaching me the language right away.  The father usually holds a serious face but whenever we try to talk together in Oromifa his face brightens and he throws his head back with laughter - it makes me proud to have this effect on him. I have a 17yo sister - she's my girl! She's got the best English in the house so she has been super helpful. And she's sweet and adorable and seems fearless. The father is away most of the day working while the women and girls take care of the home. I have a 20yo sister and two 16yo female cousins who live here too. I can tell the 17yo sister was assigned to be my keeper so the others were not as quick to warm up to me but now we're all good - lots of laughing and joking, mostly laughing at me as I struggle with the language but I don't mind, it's all in good fun!  They all call me gobez (smart) but I think they're just humoring me. I am very well fed, I have not felt hungry since I got here, they always want me to eat more and more. While in Addis there are a lot of different types of food available, I actually ate a lot of pizza - because it was convenient and I knew that once we got out to the countryside it would be injera, injera, injera (bidena in Oromifa). And I have definitely been eating a lot of it. Meals are mostly traditional Ethiopian fare - injera with shiro (a smooth lentil stew) gomen (cooked greens - one of my favorites and the greens have so much flavor here!) alicha (potatoes, cabbage, and carrot) for example, but I've also had pasta with sauce, and eggs, bread and tea for breakfast.

My family has lots of animals - oxen, cows (2 babies), sheep (a baby should arrive while I'm here), horses, mules, donkeys, chickens, a cat, and a guard dog who is ferocious - he takes his job of protecting the other animals very seriously. To get to the latrine/squat toilet (mana fincanii in Oromifa, shint bet in Amharic) you hang a right where one of the cows and her calf are tied up, head to the back of the compound and you'll find it essentially inside of the hay barn. Of course at first I was a little uneasy but now I feel like a pro! And I now know it's actually quite nice as far as mana fincaniis go. Perspective. 

We are super busy with language and health training and there's not been time for much else. The days feel long and the nights feel short even though I go to bed by 9. It's getting dark by 6:30 so we're all inside by then because there are no outdoor lights. The stars are amazing - the sky is so full! 

In some parts of the area they are rationing water. The electricity, water, and telephone network are in and out. Internet is not available out here. When the 3G is working I can pay to use data for email, fb, and Viber etc. it just doesn't work consistently. This is my life for the next few years! I'll try to post some pics when I have time and the network is cooperating. 

Ciao for now! 

Ramblings...

Honking horns, excessive car exhaust, lots of pedestrian traffic, busy markets, and an impressive amount of new construction - Addis Ababa is your typical bustling capital city in a developing country. Maintaining a sharp appearance is important here so there is an industry for shoe shining - young men will set up their little stations on the sidewalk and men and women will sit down to get their shoes cleaned while out and about.

The other day we were taken on a brief bus tour of Addis. We went to the Entoto Mountain Forest area - it was cool to be up in the fresh air and see the city below. Lots of eucalyptus growing there - smells so good! Then we went to the National Museum of Ethiopia and saw some historical artifacts including the Lucy/Dinknesh exhibit. Pretty cool.

One afternoon when we had some free time a few of us fully embraced the minibus ("taxi") experience. A minibus is literally a mini bus that seats maybe 10 comfortably, it's a means of affordable public transportation between the neighborhoods. There is a driver, of course, and another young man who takes the fare (2-3 birr, about 10-15 cents in US $) who's job is also to yell out the window what neighborhood the bus is traveling to, so you know which bus to get on. Now I'm sure there are times when people do get to sit comfortably on the bus but it seems that is not the typical experience! Riding the minibus involves getting up close and personal, perhaps even sitting on a stranger's lap! There are crates placed on open floor space to make more seats. And, of course, if the person sitting to the inside of you needs to get off before your stop then a bunch of us need to get off in order to let that person off and then get back on again. Luckily the rides are pretty short between neighborhoods in Addis. There are private taxis but they are significantly more expensive and there are bigger buses and a new train/light rail as other public transportation options. 

It's been fun getting to know my peers, everyone is coming with different interests and backgrounds and has different skills to offer - it's really exciting to learn from them and be a part of this diverse group! 

So far I'm really glad that I brought my pillow from home (rolled it up in a space saver bag), my quick dry towels, and hand sanitizer. All of the restaurants have really nice sinks and soap for hand washing since we eat with our hands (well right hand, to be specific) but I'm glad to have hand sanitizer anyway.

Our first round of immunizations set me back a bit (for about a day) and I'll admit that when I wasn't feeling well I had some doubts about why I was even here and the thought of staying here for 2 years seemed especially daunting. But now that I'm feeling better I'm really happy to be here again! Knock on wood that the illnesses are few and far between. And whenever we have training sessions focused on our health projects my heart feels so full and 2 years doesn't seem long enough - so I know I just need to talk to someone about public health and community based work to feel better on those rough days too. Shout out to my public health peeps! 

Today is Timket, aka Epiphany which is celebrated by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians. So there are many traditional celebrations and ceremonies happening around the country. There was a procession that passed right near our hotel yesterday so that was interesting to observe. Again the road is closed nearby for more processions with singing, clapping and drumming. There are things being said and sung over megaphones that I don't yet understand. Lots of activity! Obviously a very important event for those celebrating.

I absolutely love that there is a huge flowering hibiscus tree near our balcony - I've never seen such a big one with so many flowers! 

Ciao for now!

It's all a blur...

Have been in Addis for a few days now - how many exactly? I'm not sure! We've forged right ahead into our training despite some serious jet lag, hence the past few days all being a blur. Finally starting to feel less foggy and having a more normal schedule. Our hotel is nice enough - hot showers, western toilets, has wifi that works off and on, and a rather eclectic decor! Our training is here on site so that's convenient. We've been well fed and they've provided LOTS of bottled water. Have been feeling well so far with the exception of exhaustion from jet lag in combination with the altitude. Started my malaria prophylaxis (Malarone - for those inquiring medical minds) so far so good. They also give us a really well stocked medical kit for if (when) we get sick so in addition to the stuff I brought I sorta feel like I'm carrying around a mini pharmacy - but the nurse in me needs to be prepared! We get the rest of the shots we need starting next week (again for those inquiring minds - typhoid, meningococcal and rabies). We leave for our home stays in about a week. I will live with a host family outside of Addis for the next few months while I continue training with my fellow health volunteers. I will learn next month what village I am assigned to - so far all I know is it will be small and rural (population of about 2,000) and most likely I will be the first Peace Corps volunteer they've ever had. Exciting! I will make a site visit there the beginning of March and move there in April. They've helped us set up our local phones so I can be in touch with everyone I need to be locally. Not sure how well I'll be able to communicate internationally from my village but there should be a bigger town nearby that will have things like an Internet cafe and post office (posta bet) so I can go there about once a week. 

Ciao for now! Or dehna hoon (goodbye) in Amharic. 

Next Stop: Addis Ababa!

Things have been going really well.  A few days of sightseeing in DC, a few days of training and now we are preparing to fly to Addis Ababa.  Packing has been interesting - we are limited to 2 suitcases of 50lbs each which adds up quickly!  I've downsized a time or two and shifted things around - tired of dealing with luggage already!  It will be interesting to see what I'm actually glad I brought and what I could have left at home.

There are 62 of us volunteers, split between the Health and Environment sectors.  It is really comforting to be with people who share a similar experience.  We can commiserate about the lengthy process of just getting ourselves to this point.  There's a lot of "I know what you mean!" and "me too!"  And I think we all understand the whole spectrum of emotions we might each experience as we move along with the journey. 

We will continue training in Addis for a few weeks while staying at a hotel.  Then we move to a city near Addis to continue training for 3 months, while living with host families.  Training involves language, culture, navigating systems in Ethiopia, and more specifics on our projects.

I am most looking forward to learning the language and using it with some confidence and finally getting to my assigned village and feeling settled!

Ciao for now!

Transitions & Reflections

Well, I've been eating all the Thai food I can get my hands on and a lot of toast - toast with butter, toast with peanut butter, toast with nutella.  No regrets!

On a more serious note, I am feeling very lucky to have so many great people in my life!  Everyone has been super supportive and helpful - I feel incredibly blessed.  And truly you are all coming along with me on this adventure!  I came across this quote: "...during all of our travels, the electrons of those we love orbit gently through our hearts." (Sue Chance)  I'm carrying you with me!

I am also thankful as I reflect back on the work experiences that have led up to this new opportunity.  I feel like I've learned from some of the best and brightest over the years - all the way back to my new grad days to more recently in public health.  It is hard to articulate what a privilege it has been to work as a public health nurse - it has opened my heart and my mind more than I could have imagined. I have learned so much from the clients who welcomed me into their homes.

And now for the educational component of this post... You might be interested to know that Ethiopia is 9 hours ahead of MN time but 8 years behind.  Yes, you read that right!  Ethiopia has its own calendar, similar to the Julian calendar (US uses Gregorian) so it is currently 2008 there.  Their calendar has 13 months: 12 months of 30 days and a 13th month of 5-6 days.  In Ethiopia they also have their own way of telling time/reading the clock.  If you want to try to understand or be thoroughly confused check this out.  So don't be surprised if I have no idea what day, time or even year it is for awhile!

Welcome!

First things first...

Ethiopia has been called 'the cradle of humanity' - the oldest fossil remains of humans and our ancestors have been found here, including the famous "Lucy" (also known as "Dinknesh", a name meaning 'you are marvelous').

It is an ethnically diverse country, with over 80 different ethnic groups and a variety of languages spoken.  (Amharic is the 'national language' but depending on the region I am assigned to I could also learn Oromo or Tigrinya.)

Ethiopia was briefly occupied by Italy but never colonized, a point of pride.

It is Africa's second largest country by population (following Nigeria.)

Religion:  Most identify as Ethiopian Orthodox Christian, closely followed by Muslim. A small minority practice Protestantism, Catholicism, Judaism and other traditions.

Ethiopia is the birthplace of coffee!  (coffee is bunna [boon-nah] in Amharic)  It is an important part of their economy and culture.  Learn more about the traditional coffee ceremony here.
To my fellow coffee drinkers - look for fairly traded Ethiopian beans for your daily brew! Maybe Peace Coffee or Equal Exchange? (to be clear, I have no connection to these companies!)

There are currently about 220 Peace Corps volunteers in Ethiopia serving their communities on projects in education, health, agriculture, and the environment.

Peace Corps Ethiopia has recently been added to First Lady Michelle Obama's "Let Girls Learn" initiative.  Working side by side with local leaders, PCVs hope to advance the education and empowerment of adolescent girls.  Here is a video about the program: (so many smiling faces - it's guaranteed to warm your heart!)  

And here is a link to a show that gives some insight into the food and culture of my home for the next few years.